{"id":38984,"date":"2022-10-14T07:01:06","date_gmt":"2022-10-14T07:01:06","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.mapsofworld.com\/travel\/uncategorized\/assembly-santa-cruz"},"modified":"2022-10-14T10:46:08","modified_gmt":"2022-10-14T10:46:08","slug":"assembly-santa-cruz","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.mapsofworld.com\/travel\/blog\/restaurant-review\/assembly-santa-cruz\/","title":{"rendered":"Assembly, Santa Cruz – Restaurant Review"},"content":{"rendered":"\n\n
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\"Assembly<\/a>

Assembly, Santa Cruz – Restaurant Review<\/strong><\/em><\/p><\/div>\n

Assembly is the new \u201cit\u201d girl of Santa Cruz restaurants. Located in the former Aqua Bleu, Assembly has been packed since the night it opened. The day we reviewed it, the earliest seating we could get was at 8 PM.<\/p>\n

Restaurants in Santa Cruz seem to be divided into basically three categories. The top tier are the true five-star places. So far I\u2019ve encountered only one: Bantam<\/a>. Remember, by the way, that this ranking is completely subjective, and based on absolutely nothing but my own reaction to the place during one visit. Beneath that are a surprisingly large number of four-star places \u2013 really good, but not great. There are a lot of these \u2013 Santa Cruz is a real restaurant town. Finally, there\u2019s everything else.<\/p>\n

I am going to give Assembly five stars. My conclusion is that it\u2019s one of a handful of the very best restaurants this area has to offer, and neck-and-neck with Bantam for the top spot. Beth agrees. Every single thing that hit the table last night was interesting, expertly prepared, complex and just plain good. This included the usual throwaways like the butter and the coffee. This place is run by people who really know their stuff, and it shows. I have no idea how long they can keep this up, or if Bantam will be as good in a year, but as of right now, it\u2019s one of the very best.<\/p>\n

The Location<\/span><\/h2>\n

Right on Pacific, in the absolute heart of downtown Santa Cruz. There are several city lots within a few blocks, so although it will take a little looking, there are plenty of places to park.<\/p>\n

Address:<\/strong> 1108 Pacific Avenue, Santa Cruz, CA 95060<\/p>\n

Phone:<\/strong> (831) 824-6100<\/p>\n

The Hours<\/span><\/h2>\n

Tuesday \u2013 Thursday: 11:00 \u2013 22:00; Friday \u2013 Saturday: 11:00 \u2013 23:00; Sunday 11:00 \u2013 20:00. Closed Mondays.<\/p>\n

The Ambiance<\/span><\/h2>\n

Interesting. Sort of a combination of Hipster and Industrial Americana. If the Avett Brothers designed a restaurant, it would look sort of like Assembly. Big, heavy wooden tables. A plain concrete floor. Wood on the walls, decorative (and massive) wood beams running the length of the ceiling. Lots of people in hats, plaid shirts buttoned to the neck, beards and ironic Seventies sneakers, t-shirts and hoodies. Everything is extremely tasteful, but the theme is definitely Hipster Chic. I liked it.<\/p>\n

The Service<\/span><\/h2>\n

Good \u2013 wait staff in black tops, khakis and floor-length white aprons running around. Handoffs were professional and pleasant, and everyone was friendly and fast.The founders were also there \u2013 Zach Davis, and Kendra Baker, who\u2019s behind the Penny Ice Creamery, The Glass Jar and the Picnic Basket.<\/p>\n

The Price<\/span><\/h2>\n

Not cheap — $130 for two, before tip, including two drinks and two desserts. Vegetables, interestingly, are served as an additional side dish, which definitely increases the cost. Oh well.<\/p>\n

The Food<\/span><\/h2>\n

Really, really, really good. The menu is deceptively simple \u2013 only five entrees, plus specials and appetizers. The dishes tend to be beautifully constructed, creative and complex. There\u2019s a lot going on, and the chef clearly is focused on the details.<\/p>\n

For starters, even the bread was interesting. The butter incorporated kosher salt, which meant you needed to use far less of it, and it had a fun, satisfying crunch. Hmmmm.<\/p>\n

Prior to appetizers, Assembly offers a \u201csnack\u201d menu. We chose the \u201cMeat Snack\u201d, partially just because of the name. I mean, \u201cmeat snack.\u201d Sure. I love to get me some meat snack.<\/p>\n

What arrived was a nice little selection of cured meats, along with a dab of mustard, homemade toast and pate, everything garnishes with onions. The meats were provided by el Salchichero, a gourmet butcher in Santa Cruz who sources their ingredients from local producers \u2013 Dirty Girl Farms, Route 1 Farms, and so on. Assembly is serious about using local ingredients whenever possible, and the result was outstanding. Rustic, rich and earthy without being harsh. A great start, particularly when paired with an IPA beer.<\/p>\n

<\/a>For appetizers, we had salads. And Assembly being assembly, these aren\u2019t run-of-the-mill efforts. They\u2019re very carefully constructed assemblages (get it?) of absolutely top-quality agreements, put together with at least as much attention to how they look as how they taste. They\u2019re beautiful, and complex, and total pleasure to eat.<\/p>\n

I had the artichoke and asparagus salad, which was constructed (and I use that word on purpose) with wheat berries, feta cheese, dried fruits, pistachios and kumquats. Absolutely amazing \u2013 a really nice array of perfectly balanced flavors and textures, beautifully arranged on a salad plate and dressed with just a little bit of olive oil. The feta was the perfect counterbalance to the fruit and the wheat berries, all set off against the artichoke.<\/p>\n

The other salad was built along similar lines, and with a similar effect \u2013 beets, carrot and celery root, dressed with cumin, sunflower seeds and sheep\u2019s milk cheese. These are not inexpensive, simple or obvious ingredients, and they\u2019re flawlessly blended together to launch a meal at Assembly stylishly, memorably and creatively.<\/p>\n

The entrees were just as good. Beth ordered the \u201cWest Coast Burger\u201d \u2013 this is a burger in a brioche bun, cheddar, lettuce, pickled onions, \u201csecret sauce\u201d and fries. The burger was incredible \u2013 rich, savory, juicy \u2013 absolutely perfect. I don\u2019t know how they did it, but it reminded me of a story from Lee Iacocca\u2019s autobiography where Henry Ford is complaining that his personal chef at home can\u2019t make burgers as good as those in the Ford executive dining room. Iacocca, who worked for Ford at the time, went in to talk to the dining room chef, and asked him how he made such wonderful burgers. It turned out that the chef was grinding up steaks to make his hamburger. Assembly has got to be doing something like that. The burger was wonderful.<\/p>\n

I ordered the \u201cbraised beef\u201d, which is served with roasted turnips, celery root puree, carmelized onion broth, parsley and horseradish. Essentially, this is a beef stew, done with exceptional care and precision and with slightly different ingredients. The pureed celery root made a wonderful base \u2013 sort of a substitute for potatoes. The beef was perfect \u2013 tender, flavorful, and deep. The vegetables were precisely cut, flawless, and delicious. The entire thing was elegantly presented, which is a neat trick with beef stew, and a really rewarding, savory dinner.<\/p>\n

Dessert did not disappoint. One offering was the lime tart, which was made with jasmine meringue, lime confit, white chocolate ice cream and lime gelee. This was prepared in a similar fashion to the salads \u2013 ingredients artfully arranged on a plain white plate, resulting in something that was part sculpture, part dessert, and absolutely delicious. And very creative. As an example of this, the meringue was sculpted into small, round bites (the \u201cjasmine\u201d part) rather than simply layered onto the dessert. It was terrific. The sorbet assortment was similar \u2013 fresh, clean and fruity sorbets, three simple scoops laid into the middle of a simple white bowl. Outstanding, and a wonderful ending to a terrific meal.<\/p>\n

As I said at the very beginning of this review, Assembly is one of the two best restaurants I\u2019ve visited in Santa Cruz. It\u2019s possible to debate the details, but the bottom line is that this is very serious, very high-quality cooking, and it\u2019s among the best I\u2019ve had. If you\u2019re looking for a special meal, or planning a big night out, Assembly should be at the top of your list. It will be on mine.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Assembly is the new \u201cit\u201d girl of Santa Cruz restaurants. Located in the former Aqua Bleu, Assembly has been packed since the night it opened. 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