{"id":38954,"date":"2022-10-14T07:00:45","date_gmt":"2022-10-14T07:00:45","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.mapsofworld.com\/travel\/uncategorized\/malabar-santa-cruz"},"modified":"2022-10-14T10:45:49","modified_gmt":"2022-10-14T10:45:49","slug":"malabar-santa-cruz","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.mapsofworld.com\/travel\/blog\/restaurant-review\/malabar-santa-cruz\/","title":{"rendered":"Malabar, Santa Cruz"},"content":{"rendered":"\n\n
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\"Review<\/a>

Review of Malabar Restaurant at Santa Cruz<\/strong><\/em><\/p><\/div>\n

In a little spasm of curiosity, I googled the word \u201cMalabar\u201d before beginning to write this. Turns out, \u201cMalabar\u201d is a Spanish word that means \u201cjuggling.\u201d Which is appropriate. This place is, if nothing else, an impressive exercise in juggling, plate-spinning and category-defying. It seems to combine several different kinds of cuisine. It is, or at least was when we were there, one of the quietest restaurants I\u2019ve ever been to. It\u2019s vegetarian, but unlike any vegetarian place I\u2019ve ever been to. And so on.<\/p>\n

Because I write restaurant reviews, every so often when confronted with a menu, I get the urge to order the most unusual thing on the menu, simply to see what will happen. This is particularly entertaining in Chinese restaurants, where you can end up with things like scallops with bitter melon if you\u2019re not careful. However, it always produces interesting results, and teaches you a great deal, fast, about what\u2019s going on inside the head of the chef.<\/p>\n

Malabar was a perfect setting for that kind of exploration. This restaurant featured things I had never heard of, or considered simply side dishes or oddities as main courses. The sense I got from this meal was of an insanely ambitious chef, who wanted to explore the flavors of his ingredients, and wanted to do this by diving way, way deep into them and creating dishes that expressed that flavor in a way that would make you reconsider what the ingredients will do. If this is a little abstract, hold on \u2013 I\u2019ll explain in a minute or two.<\/p>\n

The Location<\/span><\/h2>\n

Address:<\/strong> 514 Front Street, Santa Cruz, California 95060<\/p>\n

Phone:<\/strong> (831) 458-3023<\/p>\n

The Hours<\/span><\/h2>\n

Tuesday through Saturday, noon \u2013 14:30 and 17:00 \u2013 21:00. Sunday, 17:00 \u2013 19:00.<\/p>\n

The Ambiance<\/span><\/h2>\n

If Malabar has one weakness, this is it. Frankly, I found the place a little depressing. It was incredibly quiet \u2013 and not hushed, elegant quiet, but more mausoleum quiet. It felt empty. The floor is concrete, the place is rather dark, and it\u2019s decorated with candlelit arrangements and some fabrics, but the overall impression I got was not cheerful but kind of maudlin.<\/p>\n

The Service<\/span><\/h2>\n

Decent. The servers knew what they were doing, but in keeping with the slightly depressing air of the place, everyone seemed a little down. This is ridiculously subjective, I know, but it reminded me of that person you know who\u2019s a vegetarian, who runs every day, who drinks a lot of water, but who always seems a little tired.<\/p>\n

The Price<\/span><\/h2>\n

A good deal — $70 for two people. Note that Malabar does not serve alcohol, which helps a lot with the cost. Instead, they offer an array of various blended drinks, which are basically tarted-up smoothies. Perfectly good, but nothing, IMHO, you can\u2019t get in a bottle from Odwalla.<\/p>\n

The Food<\/span><\/h2>\n

The food is really<\/i> good. It\u2019s a combination of several different Asian cuisines \u2013 some Indian, some Sri Lankan, some Vietnamese, and a whole lot of \u201cLook what I can do!\u201d out of the kitchen.<\/p>\n

For appetizers we started with spring rolls. These were, like everything else, vegetarian, and consisted of essentially a very small salad wrapped in rice paper and served in a beautiful presentation with a spicy peanut sauce. The sauce was wonderful \u2013 most peanut sauces are too sweet, and kind of bland. This had some kick, and was a great combination of sweet and spicy. Everything was raw, by the way, so it was also the opposite of the deep-fried-into-oblivion spring roll you sometimes get.<\/p>\n

The second appetizer order was Brussels sprouts. Yes, Brussels sprouts, which were served in another beautiful presentation. These little nuggets are the star of a lot of people\u2019s personal vegetable horror stories, but at Malabar, they\u2019re turned into something magical \u2013 a gorgeous little sculpture and a flavor that emphasizes the earthy, rich and strong texture of these things without going overboard.<\/p>\n

Entr\u00e9e # 1 was, unbelievably, saut\u00e9ed parsnips. See what I mean about the culinary high-wire act? To me, the parsnip is basically an anemic carrot, and something you toss into a stew or a soup as a sort-of filler or sweetener. Here, parsnips had been carefully cut into strips about the size and shape of French fries, very carefully and slowly seasoned and simmered in what seemed like a cream sauce, and served by themselves in a large bowl. They were amazing, and a demonstration of something I\u2019d never seen a parsnip do. That\u2019s a sentence you\u2019re not going to read in a lot of places.<\/p>\n

The other entr\u00e9e was Kofta India. Kofta is a kind of meatloaf or meatball, and given that Malabar is vegetarian, so was this dish \u2013 \u201cmeatballs\u201d prepared in a kind of spiced gravy. The final result was quite good \u2013 no matter what the ingredients, a purely vegetarian meat substitute (I know, that\u2019s a kind of meat-centric way to look at it) can be kind of dry and a little bland, and the gravy was the perfect counterbalance to that.<\/p>\n

Incidentally, the rice that can be ordered to accompany these dishes is biryani, which is wonderful also. This could easily be a great meal just by itself, but it\u2019s prepared here as a side or a base. It\u2019s fantastic.<\/p>\n

And then, finally, dessert. Beth does not do well with dairy, but in this place, that was not a problem. The dessert menu contained three items. The first was dessert vegetables \u2013 sweetened, presumably, but vegetables nonetheless.<\/p>\n

The second was a dairy-free lemon ice cream, with a citrus sauces, and the third was a chocolate mousse, again dairy-free, with dates. The mousse is a perfect example of the flavor exploration I was talking about. Because the chocolate flavor is delivered without the richness of dairy, it\u2019s much more intense, and paired with the intense, somewhat-fruity flavor of the dates. The result is a really intense, delicious dessert that doesn\u2019t accomplish its impact simply by hitting you with a ton of butterfat and dairy calories, but by distilling down the essence of what makes chocolate taste like chocolate. The result is incredible, and kind of a revelation.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

In a little spasm of curiosity, I googled the word \u201cMalabar\u201d before beginning to write this. Turns out, \u201cMalabar\u201d is a Spanish word that means \u201cjuggling.\u201d Which is appropriate. This…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_lmt_disableupdate":"","_lmt_disable":"","jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"fifu_image_url":"https:\/\/images.mapsofworld.com\/travel-blog\/malabar-restaurant-review-603x452.jpg","fifu_image_alt":"","_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":false,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2}},"categories":[6595],"tags":[8614,7386,6599,8615,8616,8617,8618,8619,8620,1162,8621,8612,8622,8623,8624,8625],"class_list":["post-38954","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-restaurant-review","tag-biryani","tag-brussels-sprouts","tag-california-restaurants","tag-ice-cream","tag-indian-cuisine","tag-kofta","tag-malabar-in-santa-cruz","tag-restaurants-on-front-street-santa-cruz","tag-review-of-malabar-restaurant","tag-santa-cruz","tag-sauteed-parsnips","tag-spring-rolls","tag-sri-lankan-cuisine","tag-vegetarian-restaurants-in-santa-cruz","tag-vietnamese-cuisine","tag-where-is-malabar-restaurant-in-santa-cruz"],"yoast_head":"\nMalabar, Santa Cruz - Mapsofworld.com Travel<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.mapsofworld.com\/travel\/blog\/restaurant-review\/malabar-santa-cruz\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Malabar, Santa Cruz - Mapsofworld.com Travel\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"In a little spasm of curiosity, I googled the word \u201cMalabar\u201d before beginning to write this. 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